Trinity owners prepare for the first supper Renovations well under way at site of former church BY KAREN E. BOWES Staff Writer PHOTOS BY JEFF GRANIT staff Charles Merla, co-owner of Trinity in Keyport, oversees renovations at the Broad Street church-turned-restaurant, April 11. According to Merla, he hopes to open for business sometime in May. Trinity is a former church that is being reworked as a high-end restaurant. KEYPORT - Like St. Patrick of Ireland, Charles Merla has brought a new kind of trinity to Keyport. Along with co-owner Marc Castaneda, Merla, older brother of former Mayor John Merla, has succeeded in transforming a historic church on Broad Street into an elegant and entirely unique downtown eatery. Called Trinity, the chosen name pays homage to the establishment's origins as a circa-1852 Lutheran church. The diverse menu also reflects a trinity with a choice of three separate ethnic cuisines: Latin, Asian and Mediterranean. Construction crews have been hard at work for months on the renovation, installing a new mahogany ceiling and creating an open air second floor for mezzanine seating. One of the highlights of the new level are several semi-private seating areas, including two eight-seat "steeple rooms." More alcove or niche than a room, these areas are located on either side of the church's front door under large windows, separated from the crowd by long curtains. "You'll see cool little features hanging around, little artifacts that we kept like the hymnal sign," Merla said. Gothic-style details, like a long bar with tombstone-shaped cutouts and cast-iron railings, add to an ambiance "that's off the hook," according to Merla. "The old lectern will be the hosting stand," Merla said last week while touring the structure. "We still have all the original pews, but we don't know where to put them yet." Merla wanted the new additions to appear authentic, he explained, to blend seamlessly into the original architecture. A self-described "foodie," Merla feels similarly about the menu. "It's New World cuisine," Merla said. "Our New World is filled with Latins, Mediterraneans and Asians. We're not fusing it together. We're treating it separately. We're keeping the integrity of each cuisine." Merla is not a chef, but he does have a long history in the food-service industry. He's worked for Kraft Foods and Aramark, the latter for over 20 years. As a child, he remembers helping out in his mother's many local eateries. Merla helped coordinate the menu, designed to appear like aged pages from an old-fashioned Bible. A special category called In the Beginning offers seasonal cheeses, fruits and cured meats as a snack with wine or shared appetizer, $14 for a solo platter or $10 per person. Listed under First Offerings are appetizers like lobster martini, described as lobster meat with fresh avocado, mango, jalapeno and cilantro, served with fresh tortilla chips, listed at $15. Revelations, or main courses, run about $24 and feature items such as grilled ginger shrimp, a meal of jumbo shrimp marinated in ginger and Asian spices and sesame seed vinaigrette, served with tarragon lime corn and lemon rice. Desserts are called Last Rites and are prepared by a local pastry chef formerly of Julia's, Red Bank. One interesting choice is the cookie tray, a selection of chocolate chip, angel-kissed pineapple, butter tarts, and apricot white chocolate chip cookies, enough for two at $10. There's also something called the absolute trinity, a giant chocolate cupcake served with vanilla ice cream, also $10. Merla encourages patrons to take their time and linger with wine or dessert. The restaurant offers two places to sit and linger, an outdoor brick patio and a basement wine lounge called the lower chamber. Both areas also offer full meal service. "You're not going to be rushed out," Merla said. "I'm not worried so much about turnover as the experience. That's how I'll get my people back." Construction crews put long hours into the lower chamber, creating a large walk-in wine cellar, kitchen and seating area. "We tried to make it look like it's underneath a church," Merla said. "Give it a more gothic feel." Although the restaurant won't be open until sometime next month, numerous reservations and parties have already been booked. At some point, Merla hopes to offer live jazz music in the area the altar formerly occupied. "I think it's really unique," Merla said. "It's gorgeous. We're just thrilled to be here." Trinity is located at 84 Broad St., Keyport. For more information call (732) 335-8717.